From Lucy Bailey's book "The Essential Guide to the Practice of Corporal Punishment"

I'm a woman who enjoys both giving and receiving corporal punishment, (physical punishment of the body). I have to say that I am often shocked at how badly many people, men and
woman, give out spankings, whippings, canings etc. Although I am no expert, I have received both incredibly horny and appallingly bad punishments. So I think I can perhaps give an
enlightening account of what is orgasmic and what is downright off-putting from the submissive's point of view. This will hopefully give some useful guidance to anyone wielding a whip or indeed any corporal punishment instrument.

As well as closely looking at how to use the equipment properly and to its full effect, I also intend in 'Part One' of this article to try and explain how pleasurable and erotic light corporal punishment can be. I hope I can encourage more people to 'have a go' as the submissive partner, the dominant partner, or even both. I will also consider ways of introducing a new partner to the subject and how to then deal with a virgin bottom. I think many people will be surprised at how much fun they can have. It could enliven and spice up your sex life. So if you have always thought that it is all pain and suffering read this and think again.

Erotic Beatings

Erotic beatings can actually be fun and immensely pleasurable, with no pain whatsoever, if unwanted. (This kind of beating is quite different from traditional CP).

Light to medium CP can be like an intense body massage. It can be a very erotic experience in itself or used in foreplay. I have found that even those unsure of spanking, male or female can be turned on by a careful, considerate partner adept at the art of an erotic beating.

My favourite scene and an ideal way to try out an erotic beating is a very long session lasting about two hours and not less than one hour. Dim the lights and put on your favourite sensual/erotic music. Lay or tie down the submissive partner on a bench or
bed. Start with them facing down, you can turn them over half way through if you want. Put some cushions or pillows under their bottom to raise them up a little making sure they are really comfortable. Blindfold them, then very slowly start to massage their whole body. Kiss and drag your nails down them. Whisper and talk quietly in their ears. After the first ten minutes or so start the beating with a soft pig-skin whip, dragging it up and down them slowly. Change then to gentle flicks of the whip, do this all over them. Return to caressing, stroking and whispering to them. Change now to a crop with a large soft tip. Tap this gently all over them, include their arms, legs and sides, try to stimulate the whole body. Build these taps up and slowly allow them to become harder.

Basically, continue this for at least one hour. Change implements to a tawse /strap, padded paddle, harder whips etc. and perhaps finally to a light balsa cane. Eventually these can be used quite hard but only to flush the skin and turn it pinkish. All the time remember to caress, stroke and massage the skin during and after the beatings. In-between using the distinct implements try other differing sensations such as feather dusters, ice or anything else interesting, long female hair is excellent for brushing up and down the body. Try nibbling and biting them gently. Remember also to kiss and whisper words
of encouragement throughout. Correctly done this will slowly warm the skin and bring the submissive to a very excited state. You may be surprised by the end at how much the submissive is actually taking.

Someone's First Introduction To Traditional CP

Introducing someone to traditional CP (or kindling an interest already held but not yet acted out) is a delicate job. So try introducing them slowly to erotic, playful and pleasurable chastisement to begin with. Even a light spanking can mark and be a little too stingy to a virgin bottom. 'Inexperienced' bottoms are like ripe tomatoes and should be treated as such. Therefore, firstly I would suggest using furry or padded /cushioned paddles to begin with. These will softly pat the bottom without any pain or marks. This will slightly redden a new bottom but not unbearably.

I would also recommend soft pig-skin whips with long or short tails and eventually build their tolerance to a gentle spanking. When first introducing someone to any CP (and with a new partner) I would always suggest the use of a 'safe word'. A 'safe word' is an agreed word used by the sub that will immediately end the punishment, for example 'Mercy' or 'Chill'. Perhaps make up your own special word. Trust is an essential part of any scene /game and the submissive must know that this word will always be respected by the dominant partner. A safe word should only be used by the sub when absolutely necessary and
should never be abused. Exhaustive use will take away its true meaning leading to 'the boy who cried wolf syndrome'. I believe that a good dominant should almost never have the safe word called as they will take time to build the scene slowly whilst carefully monitoring their partner's reactions.

There are other signals that can be used, (if required), for example a system of red, amber and green which the sub can call out to let their partner know how they are coping with the punishment. Red to stop for a little while, amber to ease the pace or explain they are getting near red stage and green to continue.

An interesting way of introducing spanking into a relationship is through various spanking games. These can be your own versions of good old family favourites like Monopoly or Trivial Pursuits for example. In Trivial Pursuits if someone gets an answer wrong they are spanked, maybe chose different instruments for different colour questions. In Monopoly in the first few rounds you can buy up properties and then spank any one who lands on them. Dice and card games can easily be adapted so why not make up your own spanking games? You can try the erotic type of light CP I have described in the 'Erotic Beating' section. Although this is not traditional CP it is a good way to introduce a new partner to the subject. It will also acquaint them with the implements allowing them to have some familiarity with them. Remember these implements are really quite scary to the uninitiated.

And now... Some Guidelines For The New Submissive... you see it is not just for the dominant.

When receiving a punishment always react, and react honestly. Don't just lie there not making a sound, this is off-putting and boring for whoever's in charge. But don't overdo it and scream the house down. Remember it can be dangerous not to react or not to react truthfully as the dominant has no real indications to gauge his effectiveness by.

If it is your first time then be prepared to suffer for the first few minutes of a spanking / paddling. These first slaps are always the worst but once you get warm it will become quite pleasant, and the best part is the after glow, the sensation of a hot bottom. I wanted to be spanked for many years before I actually took the plunge. I have to admit that it was the fear that it would be quite unbearably painful that put me off. It was not until I was in my early twenties that I finally tried it and I wish now that I had started years before.

Responsibility & Communication

As the submissive partner, it is very difficult to control what is happening to you as this can break the scenario and ruin the exciting power balance. It is also difficult for the dominant since they are not mind readers and even experienced players need to get to know the limits and fantasies of a new partner. It is probably most difficult for those who only give (permanent doms) to try and understand the submissive experience and perspective. Thus some men (some who give and receive!), often forget that although they can take anything a woman can give them, it is not always the case that the woman can take anything the man cares to dish out. The obvious reason behind this is that women do not have the same upper body strength to give out a beating and they are often smaller in stature to receive punishment. So men, try to be aware of your own physical strength as you can beat far harder than is reasonable or necessary.

The paradox of the submissive partner wanting to make clear what they can take and yet wanting to take whatever is given is a very difficult balance. I think here a lot of the responsibility during the scene lies with the dominant partner. However, before the scene I think a lot of the responsibility lies with the submissive partner to be as communicative about their fantasies as possible. I would suggest that a submissive can write down yes's & no's or little scenarios.

Some fantasies or things that they may want to try may be quite different in reality so still take things slowly. The submissive is giving their body to you as the dominant partner, to punish as you see fit, so don't betray their trust.

When someone beats me for the first time it is not the punishment that usually worries me but their technique. I hate it if they start off too hard, not because I cannot take a hard punishment, but because I need to build up my trust with them and feel they are experienced and able to handle the equipment. Take for example if someone is caning my bottom, I would prefer the first few stokes to be gentle practice shots. There is nothing more distressing than not being able to enjoy the punishment because you are so frightened that they might strike your back or legs. I have decided to try and explain a basic technique and then look at the use of some implements in detail.

Basic CP Technique

Always warm the area to be beaten first. Build up the intensity of the slaps & strokes, even during the warm up. Alter where you let the slaps/strokes fall. Don't always hit the same spot. With bottoms aim to cover the whole of the arse. Any implement that you use for CP can cause serious damage to someone so it is your responsibility to know how to use it safely. Only use equipment you have some familiarity with, practice at home on a pillow. Understand how it handles and practice your aim.

When using equipment on someone, be accurate. Use soft practice shots to begin with to check your aim. Always be aware where the tip of an implement is landing. There is nothing worse for the submissive than bending over for a good thrashing with a dominant who lets the tip overshoot. This will cause the implement to wrap around the hips or sides of the body. This will leave bad marks all around the subs hips /body, cause excruciating pain (of the wrong kind) and result in a very disappointed sub. A good dominant will measure the stroke before delivering it and ensure that the tip of the implement lands about three-quarters of the way into to the surface of the furthest bottom cheek..

Always buy and use proper and appropriate CP equipment. Much of the equipment from regular sex shops is rubbish. Try to buy good quality equipment from specialists, they can give good advice and will have a much larger range of implements. Never half-heartedly use any piece of equipment because it actually makes it more painful, just use it properly and not excessively. Control what you give out. If you want to give a harder stroke then give it but be in control - don't let it be accidental. Practice tapping at the bottom and increasing the intensity, practice soft,
medium and hard strokes, don't just thrash away without any thought to your technique and ability. Learn to use different pieces of equipment differently.

Treat distinct parts of the body differently. The more fleshy an area the more punishment it can take, for example, the back is quite different from the buttocks. Different pieces of equipment are more suited to certain areas than others. It is also worth considering that different people have different preferences, loves and hates towards distinct implements, this will then affect their ability to take them. Never thrash anyone excessively, beating is not a competition about force! As the dominant partner you need to learn /determine what the submissive can take. You can judge from the colour of their bottoms or flesh, from their reactions once you know them and most importantly from communicating with them. Lastly, remember to caress and rub the bottom during and after punishment. Doms remember you have the ability to give out a pleasurable and fun experience or you can put someone off beating for life.

THE TEN RULES TO EXCELLING AT CP

1. Always warm the area first.
2. Always build the intensity of the slaps & strokes - don't charge into someone like an express train.
3. Don't always hit the same spot. Alternate around the bottom or area being beaten.
4. Have a cut off/safety word.
5. Buy and use proper/appropriate CP equipment.
6. Use equipment properly, appropriately and not excessively.
7. Be accurate, use a soft practice shot first.
8. Caress and fondle between strokes.
9. Be considerate, e.g.. a comfortable position, words of encouragement, etc.
& THE GOLDEN RULE
10. Be careful - remember too little and they will beg for more; too much, too hard and you won't see them for dust!

Erotic Props

I think it is also worth considering the aesthetic erotic quality, innate in CP equipment. Whips hung from clothes and belts are very sexy. They are a potent visual statement saying something about the personality and perhaps sexual inclination of the wearer. They can often have a fetishishtic omnipotence linked to sexual desire. They are important props which inspire power, authority and control for both the dom and sub. I find the thought of someone slowly taking off their belt to thrash me very exciting and erotic, I immediately know what I am about to receive and
never escape its presence. CP equipment can be used in a number of scenes without actually being wielded. They can just be used as a threat, a cane for example, hung on the wall or swished through the air can induce very good behaviour. A riding crop can be used to point, to poke and guide on a sub. photography by China Hamilton

The Importance of 'Warming Up'

When beginning any chastisement (except perhaps very advanced scenes), the bottom cheeks need to be completely warmed. To warm the bottom or in fact any area to be thoroughly punished, use a thorough hand spanking. The slaps must start gently and build up until the area is pink or reddened and warm to the touch. Warming the skin actually helps prevent any serious marking. There are physiological reasons for this but
they are a little long winded to go into. It is a little like stretching your muscles before you go to the gym. A good warm up will lead to a prolonged horny spanking session, while no warm up or an inefficient one will result in your partner finding the following thrashing very difficult to accept.

Spanking - The Hand

I believe that spanking has to be the most erotic type of castigation anyone can receive. Usually it is given while the submissive is bent over the knee and thus both partners are very close to each other. Spanking also involves intimate touching as the hand actually comes into contact with the flesh of the bottom and one partner is actually lying over the genitals of the other. I find spanking exciting almost to the point of orgasm if my cheeks are slapped upwards, in a slicing (tennis) action as this makes my cheeks wobble which pulls and stimulates my cunt.
A prolonged spanking in this manner can make me soaking wet and very horny, ready for some more direct stimulation. It is not essential to use an upward slice. You can use vertical movements and downward slices. You can use your four fingers or whole hand. A cupped hand, which although is not any harder, does make more sound than a flat hand.

I also find that although I love being bent over someone's knee, (having my skirt pulled up and my knickers pulled down) and spanked thoroughly, I unfortunately find this position can make me a bit dizzy after a while, as all the blood rushes to my head. This distracts from the action. Therefore to be over someone's knee lying on a bed or sofa so that I am flat, is much more comfortable and enjoyable for longer spankings.

Spanking can be a punishment in itself, or the best prelude (warm up) to any other traditional corporal punishment. When beginning a spanking it is still necessary to start with lighter spanks and build up to harder ones. The most terrible spankings I have ever had, were where I have had my bottom literally thumped causing my spine to jolt forward. This kind of force also thrusts me into what ever I am lying on or leaning over which also hurts my front. The key to properly spanking someone is not to punch at the bottom especially the base of the spine. This does not mean you cannot hit hard or make it really sting. Just bring your hand down with a good hard slap, lift off so
that it stings but don't use excessive force. I have also been told by other girls than if the dominant partner wears more than one ring on their hands they cut into the skin during a spanking. So if spanking hard take rings off.

I like to have my whole bottom spanked, i.e. the whole cheeks up high and right down on to the tops of my legs. (However many women don't like having their legs spanked or beaten in any way). If you are going to spank areas other than the bottom remember that the slaps should be more gentle than those given to the fleshy buttocks. It is also worth mentioning that when spanking men their bottoms are often not only smaller but a little straighter and less plump, so high up spanking is not always appropriate. It is best to stick to the fleshy bits. An ideal spanking should leave the bottom warm, glowing pink, stinging and slightly sore.

Soft Whips

Soft Whips are the most erotic instruments of CP. They can be used in many ways. They can be slowly drawn across the bottom cheeks, tickling and caressing them. These whips are also ideal for use on the whole body, again being drawn down backs, fronts and legs. To use them correctly when lashing at the target the whip should be held in the right hand - while the strands / tails should be held in the left hand and slowly pulled through until the tips of the tails are finally in the left hand - the right hand should flick the whip forward towards the target (vice
versa for the left handed). Care should be taken here so that the tips of the whip DO NOT hit the around the edge of any area. Whips are often the instruments that most often wrap around the target as people have difficulty controlling them. (See also Basic CP Technique).

There are some beautiful soft skin whips on the market - check out Quality Control's range. I particularly like their long multi- stranded pig skin whips which are one colour on the outside strands and another on the inside, this means that as you hit the bottom the underneath colour flays out beautifully onto the skin. They are wonderfully soft for erotic scenes and come in beautiful colours including electric purple and blue. Smaller soft whips are ideal for use on breasts and cocks as they stimulate the skin without damaging it.

The Riding Crop

I love riding crops- if firstly, they are properly designed for the job and secondly, they are used correctly. Riding crops are easy to buy from riding shops, department stores with equestrian departments etc. Unfortunately most are completely inappropriate for the job of beating someone's flesh. These are the types that have a little oblong strip at the end, use this on someone and it will not be a very pleasant experience. This is the ideal time to explain that by having the right equipment you have at least started in the right direction for enjoying CP, however the wrong equipment is so inappropriate and painful you really have no chance. So don't scrimp on suitable, good
equipment. If you don't receive, always try it on your own arm, try imagining what a hard slap with it would feel like.

When buying a crop it MUST HAVE a large tip/fall at the end, this must be of a least one inch square or larger. I have seen some with small hand shapes at the end but most are a doubled piece of square or oblong leather. (I have seen some with rubber tips but these are a little too biting for my taste). There are also the long dressage whips that have tapers on the end. These can be used in a scene but must be used in a completely different way -
they cannot be used for whipping someone as they are too long and will probably cut into the skin and coil round the side of the bottom. They can be very erotic if just the soft tip is used to tickle and brush quickly at intimate parts of the body.

I feel I can probably best explain from experience how pleasurable it can be to receive a crop stroke properly and how painful and off putting it is to receive a bad one. A bad stroke comes usually when someone attempts to use the riding crop like a cane - IT ISN'T A CANE! Unlike a cane it has a knot at the end which holds the tip/fall in place. If the long strand of the whip or the knot hits you it is most unpleasant and there is no nice crack - just a dull thud and a deep painful indentation where the knot has probably cut into your poor skin. A good stroke is where only the tip hits you, being a doubled piece of leather it should make a lovely crack which actually sounds a little worse than it is. As both a giver and receiver I actually find this sound quite erotic and, as I have said, a good indication to the effectiveness of the shot.

Also be aware that all CP instruments that are made of leather improve with time as the leather becomes more supple from use. Thus, a new piece of equipment can be quite harsh to begin with and should be broken in on soft furniture or badly behaved teddies etc., or by flexing repeatedly in the hands until it
is a little softer. You should also feed leather regularly with a wax based dressing. This is another reason to buy good quality equipment since it actually should get better with time. My favourite and best crop is now five years old.

Rules, Rituals and Red Cheeks

I have always enjoyed playing out fantasies as part of my sex life, they can be fun, erotic, sexual and incredibly intense. Part of the enjoyment is dressing to fit the part. I love to dress up whether I am playing dom or sub. In part two of this guide I want to try and present some helpful pointers to couples, encouraging them to play out their CP fantasies. So forget those inhibitions, let loose those dark desires and then get shopping for the right costume!

I have also looked at how to include traditional CP rituals into your scenes and how CP can become part of your relationship on a daily basis. Lastly, I have continued my detailed accounts of how to use CP equipment properly and to its full effect.

Submissive or Masochist? That is the question.

There is clearly a lot of misunderstanding and misuse of these and other relevant words within the 'scene'. This is probably because many terms have taken on new meanings within the context of sexual relationships and games. There is no such thing as 'a dominant' or 'a submissive' in the English dictionary.
To help explain these names I can only define them within the context of a traditional corporal punishment scene. I am using the term 'traditional CP' not in the classical sense (i.e. a judicial punishment) but in its sexual context. Where it is a game or fantasy that many people enjoy acting out. I would define these as sexually motivated scenes where one partner (the dominant) has an authoritarian role or power over the other and then uses CP to punish them.

Some people can enjoy corporal punishment (physical punishment of the body), purely for the sensations it creates on their bodies. This can range from a mild spanking to an extreme caning. Those who enjoy extreme pain sensations in traditional CP I would describe as 'masochists'. These individuals derive great sexual pleasure from pain. I am definitely a submissive. This term is a little less easy to define. For me I suppose that 'submissive' means that the scenario/context of the scene is the most important factor to me - the power play. This nevertheless, does not mean that I hate or cannot take pain. I actually like it within the confines of the scene, but it needs to be for an actual reason, even if that reason is only that it gives the dominant
partner pleasure to do it. I would also say that I need some pain to help me achieve a submissive state in my mind, to allow me to surrender and resign myself to the punishment. So although submissives do have masochistic tendencies, the 'sub' part of their sexuality is generally much larger than the masochistic part. I would estimate that most submissives including myself are more turned on by the scene and the power play rather than the actual beating, though not at the exclusion of it. In traditional CP submissives enjoy the feeling that an authoritarian figure has total control over them. This can be loving, coerced or cruel and unjust. For example this could be a parental figure who wants to correct bad behaviour or an employer who holds an
employee's job within their power. The characters are then placed into imagined situations. These scenes can be totally imaginary, set in Victorian times or closer to real life such as office scenes.

Playing out scenarios therefore is very important to the submissive in traditional CP, as is dressing up to fit the part. That's why I am going to try and give some helpful pointers to help you get started in playing out scenarios.

The Plays the Thing - How to get started.

Playing out scenarios can be immense fun, hugely erotic or sexual and incredibly intense. They are a vehicle for making your fantasies come true. And there are an endless number of possibilities open to you so your sex life may virtually never be the same again. If you're stuck with how to get started, try talking through your fantasies first, perhaps in bed during sex. Once you have talked through a scenario together, you can then agree the outlines of the story and then just improvise the action as you go along. If talking is difficult or embarrassing write out a few things you want to try or do and show them to your partner. You can even write a detailed script. But do beware that scripts can stunt natural improvisation, be distracting and predetermine everything that will happen. Sometimes it is exciting to have a basic idea or starting point but then just let the scene go in any direction.

Communication is essential to the success of any scene. (See Responsibility in Part 1 of this guide.) Outline the action and agree the absolute yes's and no's; know the boundaries of the scene. Remember talking through a fantasy is not the same as acting it out. It is easy to take any amount of punishment in a fantasy. Scenes do get better as people open up to each other. Women especially find it hard to expose and express their desires; it takes time, although I can assure you they have as many fantasies as men and I think on the whole are more elaborate. Lastly, don't always play out scenes that only please
one of you. Make sure that both sides of the partnership are heard, explore facets of both your sexualities'.

Classic CP Scenarios

School Girl/Boy & Headmaster/Headmistress, Prison/Reform school, Nurse/Doctor/Patient, Secretary/Boss/Employee, Husband & Wife, Waiter /Waitress, Military - Army Navy, Victorian - Maid/Footman, Religious - Priest/Nun, Riding Master/Mistress & Stableboy/girl.

Switching - A person who switches is someone who enjoys playing both the submissive and the dominant role. Switching generally refers to a scene where the roles of the dom and sub are 'switched round' half way through. This switch can be incorporated in the story where somehow the tables are turned and the dominant finds themselves on the receiving end of the punishment. This then gives the submissive a chance for revenge.

All the World's a Stage

Dressing up for any scene is essential. Just putting certain clothes on can make you feel sexy. It makes the time special
and adds apprehension towards the forthcoming encounter.They help you let go of your inhibitions and immerse yourself in
the character. By dressing up in a costume you are actually helping to set the scene. They help you take on a role, not just
physically, but in how they can make you feel. Some costumes make you feel powerful, while others make you vulnerable.
Being fully clothed or completely naked are quite different states. When you are naked you are exposed and unprotected, it can be
humiliating especially if those around you are clothed. It is interesting how wearing a certain costume changes your
personality. I think this is because you lose your inhibitions and sense of self. Possibly the costumes we choose are something
of an alter ego within ourselves. When I put on a school uniform I immediately turn in to a wild St. Trinian, having immense fun
being naughty. I start misbehaving by provoking and irritating the people around me. Something about that uniform makes me
feel childish and irresponsible.

In most scenes whether they are playing the submissive or the dominant role it is the women who end up dressing the part. You
love seeing her all dressed up in say seamed stockings, high heels and a tight blue nurse's uniform. Have you ever
considered that she might want to see you as a swashbuckling leather pirate? I think it's about time men started making more of
an effort to dress appropriately for scenes!

I have been asking many of my friends what sorts of clothes they think are best suited for traditional CP scenes. The most
favoured answer was undoubtedly uniforms. This is probably because of their connections within the institutions of judicial
CP. The other popular clothes were anything smart and real, for example, suits, pencil skirts and stockings with suspenders. (I
have been well informed that although much more convenient to women, hold ups just aren't as good as suspenders.) Large
pants/panties are far more appropriate and popular than G-strings as they cover the whole bottom. In spanking scenes
having your pants/panties pulled up and down is essential. Beatings can be performed over clothes or pants before moving
on to the bare bottom. There is something really exciting about being completely dressed, but having your skirt tucked into its
own belt and your panties pulled down, so that only your bottom is showing. See 'Shopping for Costumes' at the end of this
article for help on where to buy appropriate clothes for scenes.

Such Stuff as Dreams are made on From personal experience being beaten in public, or in front of a
selected audience, is one of the most exciting experiences I have had. It can be frightening, embarrassing, humiliating and
yet thrilling. For the receiver it can become an outward demonstration of their submission. It also makes the whole
experience real and no longer just a scenario. Interestingly as a submissive you can always take far more of a beating in public.
Perhaps you just don't want to be seen as a wimp, but I think it is mainly because you are excited and turned on by the experience
that you just want to take more. The ideal place to have a public scene is at a fetish club, or invite some friends round who share
your interest.

Why not attempt a scene in the great outdoors? Some couples love spanking outside. This can be just as exciting as public
scenes. There is the fear of being discovered which can give such a deliciously naughty twist to the scene. Very British! How
about making your own personal videos? Don't let these interrupt the scene, just keep the camera wide on the action and
forget its there. They will probably be a huge turn on to watch back. (Remember keep these videos private, and be aware that
they will still exist even if the relationship does not!)

Traditional CP Rituals

These are just some useful little games/ devices to add to your scenes. The most established corporal punishment ritual is
getting the submissive partner to count aloud each stroke as they receive them. There are of course numerous variations of
this, counting after every ten, etc. Personally I hate having to count stokes as I find distracting during the reprimand. For
harder punishments the receiver can count to five ten in-between each stroke, so they have to anticipate when it is coming. Another tradition is making the submissive stand in the corner. This can be before, during or after the punishment.

Letting the offender know of their punishment in advance is often very much a part of discipline itself. It draws the punishment out
longer. You can announce the day and time the discipline will be dished out. What they should wear, what implement, how many,
~ I have known some girls tell me that this is the most exciting and frightening part of entire punishment process. I have found
that there are distinct preferences the submissives have for one aspect of the correction process. These being: the anticipation of
knowing you are to be receiving a punishment, the sensation and experience of punishment itself or the after glow sensation
of a hot, sensitive backside along how contrite it makes you feel. Another part of the anticipation and build up to the punishment is
making the submissive go and fetch and/or kiss the implement they are to be punished with. This could be following your
instructions or can be used to allow them to choose which implement they actually wish to have used on them. This can be
very helpful in scenes where the person is new or you are unsure of their limits. They can even be sent to buy an
implement, with the embarrassment that would accompany this job, or even make their own. (See making a birch rod in Part 3 of
this guide, coming soon.) Lastly is the punishment book. However to really look at this I have had to deal with it in the
context of a relationship.

Twenty-four/Seven & The Punishment Book

From my own personal experience, genuine punishment within a relationship on a day-to-day basis (twenty-four hours a day,
seven days a week), is the most rewarding and exciting kind of CP. This type of CP is where the dominant partner can genuinely
punish the submissive partner in their relationship for real reasons as they happen. I have, for example, crashed the car
and dreaded coming home knowing that I will be in big trouble! The intensity of the punishment will reflect what has happened.
There can be rules that are agreed and perhaps written down.Biting nails would probably result in a stroke of the strap on the
hand or maybe a more immediate sharp slap across the top of the thighs, whereas crashing the car would lead to a caning.

I think that the keeping of a little punishment book can also be very exciting. Often there are situations where it is not possible
for one partner to punish another, say for example, if their children are present, etc. The book can be discreetly written in,
with the submissive knowing full well that they will not be getting away with their misdemeanour. The submissive maybe made to
write in their own misconduct and/or appropriate punishments. There could be a tariff of what punishment will be given out for
what misdemeanour. The book can then be called upon during a scene so that the submissive is actually punished for real
mistakes. There could be a set time or day when all the punishments are given out or maybe every evening before bed.
Sometimes I feel that I want to be beaten but find scenes contrived and therefore difficult to act out, I think by keeping a
book it makes the punishments real. Later during a punishment I can go through differing emotions, feeling that it is unfair, or
feeling guilty about my actions and wanting to be really punished hard for them. For smaller misdemeanours I personally have
found an instant slap or immediate spanking probably one of the most sexually fulfilling experiences I have. When these happen
they are real. They do not turn into sex and are genuine punishments where I am left feeling contrite and punished.

I think real punishments within any relationship are amazingly cathartic and really work well within close relationships. When you live with someone it is not always easy to remain submissive all the time. Most 'submissives' can be anything but in their day-to-day lives. When I am rude or snappy and my partner does not respond I feel guilty and he feels annoyed with me. However, if I am smacked or punished I think we both feel much better. I must point out that this probably wouldn't work during a blazing row. I don't think it is ever really a good idea to enter into any sub/dom games when either partner is really angry or out of control. They can of course be written into the book and dealt with at a later stage when things are a little calmer. The times when I have been beaten for real (nothing to do with sex), I have become incredibly sexually excited almost to the point of orgasm. I suppose it's the sensation of a glowing bottom and the after exhilaration from all the squirming around that must have something to do with it. Nonetheless, I believe that it is something much more than that and difficult to explain. I think that beating someone is an incredibly loving act. The dominant wants what is best from his/her partner and cares enough to punish them. I am afraid that I do feel that if this is contrived in scenes of CP this essential element is often lost. Here CP can become an act of love and care, which creates a very close bond between the disciplinarian and the disciplined.

In my last article, I began my guide on how to use equipment properly and to its full effect. Although I am no expert I have received both incredibly horny and appallingly bad punishments. So I think I can perhaps give an enlightening account of what is orgasmic and what is downright off-putting from the submissive's point of view. This will hopefully give some useful guidance to anyone wielding a whip or indeed any corporal punishment instrument. So I shall continue with tawses, straps & leather paddles, hard whips and the American paddle.

Tawses, Straps & Leather paddles

Leather straps and paddles come in hundreds of different shapes and intensities. Straps can range from the humble trouser belt through to weighted priests' belts. Paddles generally
have a distinct handle whereas straps do not. Tawses are basically straps that have one or two splits to create fingers cut into the end. These implements are really only suitable for use on bottoms, tops of legs and hands. Straps/tawses are generally made from leather while paddles can come in a variety of different finishes such as leather, rubber, plastic and wood. I
prefer these classic CP implements when made from quality leather. There is something quite delicious about the feel of leather against the skin. Always remember that leather equipment softens with time and needs special care.

Paddles tend to cover a bigger area of the bum than a strap and since they are usually quite stiff you don't have to worry about controlling the tip as much. When using straps or tawses you should measure the stroke before delivering it. To measure the stroke you use a technique where the first strike you make merely touches the bottom gently. You can then check where the stroke has landed and thus ensure you know exactly where a hard strike will land. Ensure that the tip of the implement lands about three-quarters of the way into the furthest buttock.

The longer the strap the harder it is to control the tip, so the more practice you need before using it. Try to get the flat of the strap or tawse and not the edges to land on the bottom or target area. It should land with a good crack if it lands correctly and a dull sound if wrong. I have found the main problem when receiving strokes from these implements is that the power behind the stroke or the implement itself can continually land on the furthest buttock. As the administer it is important to be aware of this problem as it concentrates the punishment on to one area making the punishment uncomfortable in the wrong way! To solve this problem I would suggest either aim and strike at each cheek separately or alternate with a backhand stroke so that each cheek receives the same amount of punishment. Be confident and well practised if you do use backhand as it is a very difficult stroke. Beware of cheap straps/paddles/tawses that have rough or sharp edges as they can cut into the skin.

Also worth mentioning are the famous Scottish Lochgelly tawses. These were originally used in a very specific way. The tawse would be draped over the shoulder and brought down onto the recipient's palm by whipping the forearm down. The elbow was kept locked into the side of the body and this meant
that extreme accuracy was possible. It you are going to attempt this stroke be aware that it should land in the palm of the hand.
Note that bones in the hand and fingers are very easy to break, so only very gentle strokes should be administered.

Hard (Multi-stranded) Whips - Cats & Floggers

Whips are probably the most versatile of all CP implements as they can be used in such a variety of different ways. There are
firstly, numerous techniques to using a whip (which I shall explain later) and secondly, whips can be used on probably
every area of the body. Though most usually on backs and bottoms.

Whips come in various sizes dependent usually on the length of the thongs, which can be short or long. Thongs come in just
about every finish: leather, rubber, suede, pigskin, rope. The material of the thongs usually will determine how soft or hard the
whip is. Whips can have multiple thongs or just one single tail. (For single-stranded whips see Bull/Snake Whips, etc. in Part 3
of this guide). Multiple whips have either flat or rounded tails. My personal interpretation is that those with round, stringy thongs
are known as 'Cats', while whips with flat thongs are called 'Floggers'.

What to look for in a good whip: Firstly the handle needs to be strong, easy to grip and feel right in your hand. The point where
the thongs/tails meet the handle is called the shoulder, make sure they are securely attached. The shoulder is usually where
whips break. Whips receive a pretty good bashing when they are being used. Generally a good whip will be balanced in weight at
the shoulder or will be forward in the tails. Test this by balancing the middle of the whip on your finger and see which way the
whip leans. A well-balanced whip is easier to use and will mean less work. Less work means less effort for effect. Remember
whips should always be stored hanging up, so that the tails are not damaged.

Using a Whip:

Whips especially ones with long thongs, are particularly difficult to control and therefore need considerable practice to use
correctly. There are a number of different strokes that can be employed when whipping someone. (See below) When learning
new techniques start by practising on a pillow. Then use soft practice shots on the target, measuring the strokes first to check
your aim. Give particular attention to where the tips are landing. When a whip is used incorrectly the tips wrap around the edge of
the target area, particularly the hips and side of the body. I also find it particularly off putting and painful if the tips catch me
between my legs. When the tails of a whip wrap around, it creates an effect whereby all the energy of the whip is passed
into the tips. These tips are also hitting a sensitive and often soft part of the body, making wrap around shots excruciatingly
painful.

Remember it is not just soft whips that can be used erotically. This is why whips are so versatile. Even a whip with harsh
thongs can be used to caress skin. You can use the ends of the tails to tickle or brush at the body, or without using any force you
can use the thongs to slowly stroke the skin all over.

The American Paddle

The American paddle has gained its name because it is such a favoured implement in the USA. They are bats made from various types of wood, most traditionally maple. They come in a variety of shapes typically oval or ruler shape. These paddles are easy to use and be accurate with. The sensation when being hit (from personal experience I might add) is of an incredible stinging and biting blow across a large area of your bottom. The blow lingers on even after it has come of the skin, resounding as though it is still there. It is therefore, hard to take a quick succession of strokes. They also make a distinctive loud 'whap'
sound. These paddles are only really suitable to use on bottoms and perhaps the ruler shape paddles could be used on the tops of legs. A wooden paddle can inflict quite considerable pain with the minimum of physical force. The main mistake people make when using these paddles is to use far too much force behind each stroke. The correct technique is to allow the weight of the paddle to do the work for you. Some wooden paddles have holes in them. Please note that these are extremely painful. Always make sure there are no splinters or rough edges on the paddle. I have to say I would never choose to have one used on
me. I don't find them erotic whatsoever, just harsh and painful and really difficult to take a lot of.

This is the last part of my guide and I am now going to deal with aspects of CP (physical punishment of the body) that will really interest only very serious players. I am going to describe some classic discipline positions and give a short lesson on the physics of CP. I have also included a helpful table grading the intensity of most CP implements. To end I will take a very detailed look at some of the heavier implements of CP -the famous English Cane, the imposing Single-Tail Whips and the Birch.

Serious Discipline

Many people enjoy CP because it is a 'real psychological and/or physical punishment'. These are games that only very
experienced and confident players, who know each other's limits well, should involve themselves in. A punishment scenario
ensues when the dominant issues out the details of a punishment. This can be part of a scene or real discipline being
handed out by the dominant to their partner. The submissive will have to accept every edict of this. The dominant should allow the
beating to reach just over the submissive's threshold so that there is real endurance for the submissive. They have to really
submit to the pain, and importantly the will of the enforcer. These reprimands take place without any kind of warm up. This may
sound cruel but sometimes I actually prefer to be caned or birched from cold. To feel every stroke. It also makes the whole
experience 'real'. Being disciplined without a warm up also leaves very precise marks from the implement being used.
During a serious punishment I like to know the amount of strokes I am to receive. It gears you up towards taking this
amount, setting your mind to the target. I think an undisclosed amount is more difficult to accept.

Heavy or severe punishments will probably leave lasting marks on the submissive. There is actually a lot of pleasure for both the
submissive and the dominant seeing marks left after a beating. They are a 'memento' of the reproach. The submissive carries
around the dominant's mark a reminder of their transgression. One of the most exhilarating scenes I have experienced was
receiving 100 strokes of the cane as a punishment. (I won't gointo the details but I am sometimes known as Miss De Meaner).
I was put into a perfect submissive posture with my bottom exposed up in the air and my head down low on the bed. I was
instructed not to count any of the strokes that were not hard and I didn't cheat. I was then told that for the last 10 I should not move
or make a sound, or the correction would begin again. These last few increased in intensity, but I managed to take the
punishment completely.

After any kind of punishment it can be nice for the dominant partner to offer to rub some kind of soothing cream into the
submissive's sore bottom. I think the best creams are foot balms as they often contain cooling properties such as
peppermint oil. You can even keep baby lotion in the fridge so it is ice cold before you apply it. To help prevent marking or to help
marks heel faster I would recommend arnica cream as it speeds up and reduces the development of bruising. Arnica
tablets can also be taken orally.

Classic Positions

Placing the submissive into a fixed position for a punishment can be a very important ritual. Certain positions can induce a
feeling of vulnerability or place the person into a position of helplessness. Seeing the submissive bent into certain shapes
or positions can also be very erotic for the dominant. Two classic positions used for CP are 'over the knee' and 'bending over,
touching your toes'. If you have someone over your knee you should hold him or her firmly round the waist and keep your legs
at a right angle, slightly parted, so they don't fall off. They should be able to rest their arms and legs on the floor. For complete
control, bend your submissive over only one knee, holding both their wrists with your spare hand, place your other free leg over
the backs of their knees. Remember, as I have said before, being put over someone's knee can make you very dizzy after a
while, so try lying the submissive over your lap on a sofa/bed for long spankings.

One rather unorthodox position I rather like is for the receiver to sit naked, legs open on the dominant's lap facing away from
them. They then bend forward and place their elbows on the floor, the dominant then opens their legs. You are completely
helpless in this position and extremely vulnerable. Touching your toes is difficult even for the most flexible of us, so have the
submissive grasp their knees instead or bend them over the back of a chair making them hold the seat. Be aware that any
position that makes the bottom taut will make the chastisement more painful especially when caning.

The Winchester position gets its name from its use in the public school of the same name. This position for receiving punishment involves placing two chairs back to back. The submissive kneels on the seat of one and bends over grasping the seat of the other. This really creates a raised up 'on all fours
position'. When using chairs I would suggest putting a cover on the seat and back to cushion the knees and stomach. Lying
down on a bed or even a table can be a very erotic position; pillows can be placed under the stomach to raise the bottom.
There are untold positions to try, the submissive can stand spread eagle against a wall or be put on to their backs and
made to raise and/or open their legs for more intimate beatings. Remember try to be realistic about the position that you put your
partner into, especially if you want them to stay put for long periods.

The Physics of CP

Yes now its time for the science bit. I know that many people will find this all rather boring but understanding the physics of CP
will actually help you grasp precisely what is happening when you are beating someone. This will help you improve and
master your technique. Kinetic energy is energy that something possesses because it is in motion (moving). For the science
buffs this is actually a body's mass times its velocity squared. Therefore, any implement when swung through the air carries
energy, this is because it is moving, the faster it moves the more energy it has and the more energy will pass from the implement
onto the skin as it lands. This energy can be thought of as pain energy so the faster the tool is moving the more pain it will
impart as it lands.

KINETIC ENERGY = BODY MASS X VELOCITY2

The tip of any CP instrument is travelling faster than any other part of the implement. This is because it is moving through a
greater arc than the handle area. This means it has the most kinetic energy and hence the most potential to cause pain. This
is why long thin implements such as the cane always feel like they hit you harder on one side even if the stroke lands flatly
across your bottom. This high energy imparting spot is known in sports (such as cricket and tennis) as the 'Sweet Spot'. This is
the main reason why you need to be extremely careful not to let implements wrap around the side of the buttocks or body, as the
tip will impart the most energy. Plus the velocity is increased from the 'ricochet effect' of missing the target. Then it lands on
softer thinner skin causing terrible marking.

Two important factors to help understand the physics of CP are the speed the implement can move at and the area it will come
into contact with. Consider a large flat paddle. As a paddle travels through the air it is pushing air molecules out of the way.
This slows the velocity and hence lowers the kinetic energy. When the paddle lands it is cushioned by air molecules trapped
between the blade and the bottom, this may not be apparent to the recipient but try the same thing with a similar paddle with
holes and you will soon feel the difference. Hence thin, whippy implements will always move at a faster speed and therefore
impart more energy. They also are thin so there is really no 'air cushioning effect'.

GUIDE TO INTENSITY OF CP EQUIPMENT

SOFT
The Hand - Spanking
Padded/Furry Paddle
Soft Pig-Skin Whips
Slipper
Riding Crop
Dressage Crop (Tip)
Table Tennis Bat

MEDIUM
Hairbrush
Ruler/Ferule
Strap/Belt
American/Wood Paddle
Medium Floggers
Leather Paddle
Tawse
Wooden Spoon
Birch - Bushy
Birch Light Rattan/Willow
Cane - Short
Cane - Thin
Martinets/Cats

HARD
Rubber Paddles/Crops
Paddles - Studded/Holes
Hard Floggers/Cats
Scottish Tawse
Birch Tree Rods
Cane - Medium
Cane - Thick
Quirt/Signal/Stock Whip
Singapore Style Cane
Short Bull/Snake Whip
Bamboo (No flexibility)

This is just a general guide so please note:

1) The hardness/ softness of any instrument will actually depend on the intensity of the given stroke.

2) Every piece of equipment is different; two types of similar straps may for example, have completely different intensities. New leather equipment will soften with use and a very hard instrument may become quite gentle over time.

3) How people react to each instrument is different. Pain is a relative concept. Individuals all have their own preferences. For example, if you hate the sensation of cats/floggers you will find them difficult and painful to take.

Remember: The whole point of using any implement is that it can inflict a harder blow than would be possible with your hand. Differing implements allow the discipliner to choose what kind of severity they wish the punishment to consist of. Make sure you fully comprehend the intensity of the implement you are intending to use.

Other less Conventional Implements

Although I generally recommend serious practitioners use proper CP equipment, there are many other items that from time to time can be fun to use like a table tennis bat, ruler or hairbrush. Many people love experimenting with common household items like wooden spoons or slippers, even magazines. I have found that most people have a 'fetish' for or favoured implement. Some items can hold special memories or meaning. I have a good friend who enjoyed beating me with a whip made from his ex-wife's most expensive suede dress.

Now it's time to look in detail at the more serious end of punishment implements.

The Cane

This is probably the implement most associated with Corporal Punishment. There is something very emotive about this traditional, English disciplinary tool. To the uninitiated a caning may seem rather staid but I can assure you a heavy caning is one of the most painful and intense forms of CP. There are many types of cane, which are actually tropical grasses or palms characterised by knuckles or joints where the new segment of growth shoots off. Bamboo is probably the best known although not really suitable for CP as it is inflexible. The best types of cane
to use are those that come from the rattan family as these have a pliable/flexible stem. There are enormous varieties of rattans, with innumerable differing qualities. The most popular varieties for making a punishment cane are kooboo, dragon, palambang and malacca.

Crook or Straight Handle

So why do canes have crook handles? I have to say I'm not exactly sure as I have found lots of different explanations. One being that originally walking canes were used to beat people with so the crook handle is just a remnant of this. I have also read that the crook was used to stop the cane slipping out of the hands during a vigorous thrashing. The crook was also used to hang the cane up so it would be a constant reminder to errant
young children. Well the crook handle is certainly synonymous with school discipline. I don't think the handle makes much of a difference to the cane, many people just have a personal preference. Some straight canes have some kind of added handle, which does make them easier to use.

Short or long & thick or thin

Canes come in a huge variety of lengths and thickness. I would suggest that a beginner use a short lightweight cane. The longer the cane the more swing, the greater the arc, equalling a more painful stroke. Remember the longer the cane the more difficult it is to control. The weight of the cane changes the sensation and intensity of the stroke. The thinner the cane the more 'stingy' and biting it feels. While thicker canes are heavier, more 'thumpy'
and tend to bruise the skin.

Caning Techniques

There are two different ways to cane someone. Firstly with a 'wrist only' movement and secondly, with an 'arm and wrist' movement. I would suggest that beginners (and when caning in an area with limited space/height) you should always use the wrist movement. It is also the stroke I prefer to use as it has a greater degree of accuracy. Hold the cane in your hand and using only your lower arm, tuck your elbow into your body, use a fast wrist motion to flick the cane at the target. If you cane without moving your wrist you cannot get any speed into the motion of the stroke or that lovely 'swish' noise as you are not really using the flexibility of the cane.

The 'arm and wrist' movement involves lifting up and bringing down your arm, putting the force of your shoulder behind the stroke, finishing the stroke with the wrist movement. The arm can move either up or out for this motion. Make sure you practice the movement and measure the stroke lots of times before beginning the punishment, as with this technique it is easy to be inaccurate. Another caning technique is that of 'bastinado' a rapid, fast continuous drumming of the skin often used for punishing the feet. If you have never caned someone before try holding the cane about three-quarters of the way in, this makes it shorter, less flexible and simple to control. As you gain confidence move your hand out until eventually you are holding it at the end.

After striking the bottom you can either follow through with a stroke that leaves the cane firmly planted on the buttocks or allow the cane to bounce back and lift it away from the area. Following through will make the stroke more painful and 'thumpy', this is because you are passing on all the kinetic energy of the stroke into the buttocks. While lifting off does not dump as much energy onto the area.

In old public school films I have seen the punisher run across a room to administer the stroke. I don't personally believe this will make a great deal of difference to the stroke, (except making it more difficult to be accurate). However, I am sure it does have some great psychological effect on the frightened recipient.

Where should you aim for?

A proper cane stroke is really best suited for use on the fleshy buttocks. It can be used on other parts of the body but I suggest using a very short lightweight cane, with a building tapping motion for this. I would suggest that beginners aim to keep the tip of the cane in the middle of the furthest cheek. Once you are more confident keep the tip about two inches in from the outer edge of the bottom. Beware of over-shooting the target. Often when caning you can measure the stroke but will then over shoot this when putting your power behind the stroke. The highest cut should be just below the cleft of the buttocks and the lowest just along the crease where the bottom meets the legs.

One of the main mistakes that people make when using a cane is to deliver six strokes all on to the same spot. I love to see a caned bottom with six evenly placed lines across it each about an inch apart. So try and cane the entire bottom don't just hope to hit anywhere. Practice high and low shots. Even experienced players can miss-hit sometimes but remember - if you are not that experienced start with medium or light strokes so that they will not cause too much damage if you do miss.

I think thatwhere you stand in relation to performing the caning is one of the most important factors. Where you stand will determine at what angle the cane will hit the bottom. If you are too forward or behind the target the angle will be too great and result in one buttock receiving a very heavy punishment and the other side none at all. Use the lines you are leaving on the bottom as a guide to how well you are balancing the strokes. You should try to hit both sides of the buttocks evenly and equally. The perfect stroke lands flat so that the energy imparted/transferred is evenly distributed. So always try to make the stroke as flat as possible.

Before the prevalence of the cane the most popular implement was of course the birch. However the cane fitted in well with the Victorian ideals of modesty as it could be easily used over the clothes with very little loss of intensity. So the cane is one of the few CP implements that can be particularly effective over clothes. Caning over tight skirts, jeans, shorts and thick panties are all popular. If you want to indulge in a heavy caning session but don't want to be marked some practitioners recommend the use of a folded wet towel laid over the buttocks. It will prevent marks, yet still allows much of the intensity of the punishment to come through. It is also a good method for a dominant that wants to really thrash away at their partner.

What should you look for when buying a cane?

No two canes are ever identical, as they are grown not manufactured. There are also an endless variety of rattans. Thickness, flexibility, curvature, colouring and surface finish all varies. Often canes are named/graded by their increased length and thickness: Junior Cane 8mm diameter, Senior Cane 10mm and Reformatory Cane 12mm plus. Lengths usually range from 30in to 36in. Most standard canes are made from kooboo. For a more serious punishments try dragon as the rattan is much denser. Traditional Singapore punishment canes are about 15mm thick and about 50 inches long.

Make sure the cane is straight and smooth. It should either be cut so there are no knuckles or they should have been sanded down. It should be flexible - not too stiff and not uncontrollable. If you want to buy a truly authentic quality cane I would recommend ordering from a specialist, try John Grey & Co., Master Cane Makers. Canes will of course dry out and become stiffer and more brittle over time. This will make them more prone to snap. The best place to keep your cane is in a nice humid bathroom to prevent it drying out too much.

Single Tail-Whips (including The Bullwhip)

Most people picture riotous cowboys cracking bullwhips or Catwoman and Indiana Jones wielding them in the movies. Unfortunately bullwhips are really pretty useless for CP scenes. This is mainly because they are anything from 6ft upwards in length. To be honest, very few people will ever have the space or ability to actually use a bullwhip to strike someone with. However, if you ever do get the chance to have a play with one in a park or large open space, have a go at swinging it round your head or trying to crack it. It is a wonderful sensation to have such a powerful implement in your hands.

There are however, many shorter single-tail whips that are excellent for CP. These are generally made from plaited cow/horse hides or kangaroo skin, though can be made from rubber. Please don't just dismiss single-tail whips, imagining they are too difficult to master. Yes they do need a good deal of practice but they are actually really fun, rewarding and impressive to use. Briefly and simply I'll try to explain why some whips crack - as you throw your weight into the whip it passes kinetic energy (motion) along the thong which is tapering (becoming smaller). This 'movement' energy has to increase because the space it is filling is decreasing; this increased speed eventually breaks the sound barrier. Whips need a cracker (a very thin sort of thread) at the end to make then actually crack. Between the thong and the cracker is the fall. Falls can be interchangeable and/or easily replaced, as this concentration of energy will inevitably damage them. They act to protect the thong from damage.

Some single tail whips: Bullwhips - tapering plaited whip with an integral, stiffened handle, usually upward of 6ft in length. British Hunting Whip/Stock Whip - these have a separate hard handle (sometimes 'L' shaped to open gates while out on horseback). The Snake Whip - this has no handle and thus is completely flexible. It can be easily coiled up taking up hardly any space. Quirts & Signal Whips - these are both short plaited whips. Quirts are about 18 inches to 2 ft in length and can have a number of different types of fall. Signal whips although short can be made to crack. Ideal for making an impression in a small space.

Using a Single-Tail Whip

Firstly get to know your whip, how it feels and moves in you hands. The key to single-tail whips is practice, practice, and practice. Try and imagine the whip is an extension of your own arm. There are lots of different techniques when using single-tail whips. I am going to outline two simple ones ideal for CP. The flick shot, holding the whip handle or pommel in your right hand and the fall in your left quickly flick the whip at the target. You can also try this shot by holding the handle in your right hand at head height and continually throwing the whip in a circular motion forward, flicking it quickly with the wrist at the target. Over hand,grasp the whip handle in your right hand, holding it above and behind your head, hold the tails with your left, and quickly bring the whip down (to the side or over your head) onto your target. Lying the subject down is ideal for this shot.

Always start off with very gentle strokes, measuring them first to
check they are hitting the target before you put your power into the stroke. These whips are extremely powerful and can cut the skin. Be very careful where the tip is landing it may have you or your partner's eye out. They can easily flick back and catch you!

I have consulted with Alex from Cobra Whips and he suggests a good whip to begin with is a horse quirt. You should be able to find something from about £75 upwards. These are expensive whips to invest in so find out what you actually want from your whip. There are a number of different possibilities you can have custom built into it. A good whip can last a lifetime, certainly upward of 30 years if it is cared for correctly. When using your whip if you bash it against walls etc. you will damage it. Remember it is moving really fast. Dress your whip every few months with a good hard leather dressing. Falls and crackers will wear out so replace them or return your whip to the maker. Always store your whip hanging up.

The Birch

Birches are probably one of the oldest implements used for CP. They are also very easy to obtain as you can make them yourself. A traditional birch is a rod made from a bundle of twigs cut from a birch tree and tied together. The twigs on a birch are actually very bushy, delicate shoots, more like a hedge than a tree. Today often what may be described as a birch rod, will not actually be made from birch but from some other kind of tree. Just about any kind of thin, supple twigs/branches/switches can be used to make a rod with. It is difficult to explain the sensation of being birched as it varies depending on firstly, the tree the switches are taken from and secondly how old or dried out the rod is. An actual birch is quite scratchy and if not freshly cut can prick the skin and make you bleed.

Rods made from other trees obviously vary but are much heavier and harsher as they are less bushy and are usually made with about 10-15 straight thin branches tied together. I have read that cutting green shoots makes the rod more painful. Definitely a freshly cut birch is far more supple and therefore has a lot more swish in the air making it more painful. However, very old rods can also be very painful as they will brake and snap while being used, very dramatic, but this will cause them to cut into the skin. This is why older rods should be soaked in water before use. Soaking the rods also gives them more weight. I particularly like stripped willow or rattan rods; they are completely smooth, very flexible and last for ages. I have come across a small kind of birch rod made up of one to about three branches tied together this is often referred to as a Switch.

Most people use the birch like a cane giving hard individual strokes. I personally believe that you should give out lots of fast strokes together in batches of 5 or 10 so you are really thrashing away at the target. I often receive as a punishment a hundred strokes of the birch in 10 batches of 10. Birches and switches are only really suitable for use on the bottom and thighs. Birches are actually my favourite CP implements even though not many people use them today. They are easy to make and free. I love the sensation of being beaten with one; it builds to be unbearable without the instant intensity of for example, the cane. And the person using one certainly has to get involved in thrashing away. I love to see their aggression and sweat.

How to make a Birch Rod

First bear in mind that these days your are not permitted to start chopping away at trees in public spaces. However, there are woodlands, cemeteries, your own garden and a number of obvious places where you would cause no harm by cutting away a few switches from a tree. Be responsible - ask permission if necessary. You can use birch, willow, pear and apple trees. However, I recommend trying hazel, sycamore and ash. They all produce straight young shoots suitable for use as switches and are fairly common some having weed like status. Decide how many rods you wish your birch to have, anything from 10-15 is appropriate. Though you can have as little as 4 or as many as 25. They are usually about 30-40 inches in length.

Once you have collected your rods, you can either strip back the bark then lightly sand them or tightly cut back any small twigs or irregularities and keep them rough with the bark on. Then tie them together with string or even black tape and trim them so they are all the same lengths. Birches were originally designed to be used once. So don't expect them to last forever. If they have dried out you can soak them in a bath over night but shake off the excess water before use. Keep them away from hot, dry places. Try to keep them in a bathroom where the moist air will keep them supple. Eventually they will start to make a mess when being used loosing their bark everywhere or the tips will start to snap off. You can trim them down but I would suggest this is an indication it is time to build a new one. If you have collected an actual birch, as it is lightweight and rather bush like there is no real stripping to do. Just bind the branches together with some string, traditionally ribbon was used. Then just trim your birch in to a nice tidy shape. Be aware birch will probably not last for very long as the very thin twigs dry out very quickly.

Much of what is involved in CP is subjective and personal to every individual. So writing a guide is pretty troublesome. I imagine that certain sections of this guide seem obvious, whereas in other places I have not gone into enough/or too much detail. I have tried to make the guide simple to understand and practical in its application. Relating many of the suggestions back to my own experiences hopefully making it more interesting to read. I particularly wanted to write this piece as I felt there was a real lack of practical information regarding CP, especially how to use the implements. To really encourage people get started with practical suggestions and sensible advice. I wanted to explain that not all CP is about pain and suffering. So I hope that I have shown that everyone can enjoy some aspect of CP even if it is having your body slowly stroked with a soft whip. So get wielding those whips and start having some fun!

If you have enjoyed this article, why not buy a copy of Lucy Bailey's Book? "The Essential Guide to the Practice of Corporal Punishment", priced £12, is available from MissMarchmont@hotmail.com